Rub the faces of the point on a sal-ammoniac brick, applying a small amount of solder to the point as it is rubbed on the sal-ammoniac. The solder will form a thin bright film on the faces of the point. If a sal-ammoniac brick is not available, the point can be tinned by rubbing it in pulverized rosin and solder.
When a soldering iron is overheated, the tinning is destroyed. If this happens, the point should be allowed to cool, and then should be filed and retinned. Dipping Solution. Only the tip of the point should be dipped in the solution and it should be withdrawn quickly. The tinned point will emerge bright and clean. A soldering iron should never be dipped into zinc chloride or other acid solution, as the acid may spatter into the eyes or on the skin and clothing, and possibly cause blindness or severe burns.
Soldering Procedure. The procedure that will help to secure strong, neat soldering is as follows: 1. Clean the surfaces to be soldered. Solder will not stick to dirt or grease. Do not depend on the heat and flux to remove all of it. Use a well-tinned soldering iron.
In some cases it is advisable to have two of them, heating one while soldering with the other. Use the proper flux. Control the heat. Do not allow the soldering irons to overheat, but have them hot enough to melt solder readily.
Keep the soldered surfaces close together to insure a strong bond. Do not handle or move a soldered job until the solder has "set" and has partially cooled. Solder is weak and brittle during the process of solidification. The ideal way to apply solder is to flow it on. To preheat the surfaces so that the solder will flow on, the point should be held as shown in Fig. When the surfaces are hot enough, the point is moved slowly along the seam. Note that the solder is added to the seam, and that the point is held in such a manner that it heats the metal in advance of the flowing solder.
Keep one face of the point flat against the work so that the heat will be conducted rapidly to the metal. It is often easier to solder sheet metal if the seam is "tacked" first.
This is done by applying small drops of solder at intervals along the seam, as shown in Fig. Sweat soldering is used when the contacting surfaces of two pieces of metal are to be soldered together.
First the surfaces are tinned and then they are placed together and a soldering iron or blowtorch used to heat them and "sweat" them together. Pipe fittings, lugs, and electrical terminals are soldered in this manner.
Electric Wire Splicing. Loose connections also cause increased electrical resistance and may lead to a fire because of the sparking or heating that is likely to occur at such faulty joints. The requirements of a good splice are:.
That it be soldered well and neatly to prevent corrosion. Wire used for lighting and power purposes has a rubber covering which is usually protected on the outside with cotton braid. The wire itself is made of copper and is often tinned to prevent corrosion. In order to make a splice with this wire, a pair of pliers and a good sharp pocketknife are necessary. The knife is used for stripping the insulation from the wire, the sharp edge of the knife blade being used for cutting the insulation and the back of the blade for scraping, so as to prevent dulling of the cutting edge.
Insulation should not be cut away as shown in 1 , Fig. A wire can be easily broken if it is nicked, and the cross section of the wire is also reduced at the nicked point, thereby increasing the resistance to flow of current. The correct way to cut the insulation is to whittle it off in a manner similar to sharpening a pencil, as shown in view 2 , Fig.
When the rubber and braid have been removed for a sufficient distance, the remaining rubber is then scraped off until the metal shines. Do not scrape off the tinning, however. Hold the wires firmly and make one turn with the connecting wire on the running wire. Then pass the end of the connecting wire beneath itself, as shown in view 4 , Fig. A tap splice, correctly made, is shown in view 4 ; an improper splice is shown in view 3.
A fixture splice is largely used in wiring fixtures or in places where it is necessary to connect wires of different sizes. First, strip the insulation off each of the two wires for a distance of 5 inches and then scrape the wires clean.
Hold the wires firmly, as shown in view 5A. Then twist the wires together with the pliers, 63 FIG. The Western Union splice is the most common splice used in connecting wires. Strip off about 5 inches of the insulation and scrape as explained previously. Hold the wires firmly in position, as shown in 6A.
Then make 5 or 6 turns with one wire, as in 6B , and the same number of turns in the other direction with the other wire, as in 6C. Cut the ends of the wires off short and pinch the ends down with pliers so as to be sure that no sharp points remain to stick out and cut through the insulating tape that is applied after the joint is soldered.
Make sure that the turns are tight and close together and that there is no movement when the splice is finished, 6D. In view 7 , a Western Union splice is shown as it would be used in a twin conductor. The important point to note here is that the splices are placed so that they cannot touch each other. Soldering Electrical Splices. Heat the soldering iron.
Clean the wires to be soldered, removing insulation and scraping the surface of the wires, as explained previously, until they are bright and clean. If the wires are not previously tinned, place a thin film of flux on them.
Rosin is recommended for electrical connections. Do not use an excess of flux, however. Test the soldering iron for temperature by touching the tip to the solder. If the iron has to be held on the solder in order to melt it, the iron is not hot enough. However, if the solder melts at once, the iron is ready for use. Tin the soldering iron, as previously explained. With the iron hot and tinned, tin each wire by bringing the 65 iron in contact with the wire, at the same time touching the point of contact with the solder.
Splice the two wires together, as explained previously. Then apply a thin film of flux and bring the soldering iron in contact with the solder and the splice, as shown in Fig. When sufficient solder is melted on the splice, remove the solder and iron. Hold the connection securely until the solder hardens. If the temperature of the material being soldered is not brought up to the melting point of the solder, the result will be a "cold soldered" connection. Such a joint might give the appearance of proper bonding, but the electrical continuity of the circuit would be poor, and the poorly soldered connection would offer high resistance to a flow of electric current.
After electrical splices are soldered they should be carefully taped in order to avoid short circuits. The splice should first be covered with rubber tape, and then friction tape should be wound over the rubber tape. Use a knife to cut away all of 66 the braid and rubber insulation for a distance equal to the depth of the hole in the lug, as shown in Fig. With the point of the knife, clean out every bit of rubber that remains in the spaces between the outer layer of strands, and then spread all of the strands out so that they can be cleaned thoroughly for tinning.
However, do not spread them enough to bend them much out of their original position, as it is necessary to pack them in as close as possible when sweating them into the terminal. It is also advisable to cut away FIG. If the braid should catch fire while the solder is being applied, it might burn sufficiently to require an extra amount of tape and result in a poor appearance. A blowtorch is used on this type of job, and the flame of the torch is played freely on the copper strands, solder and flux being applied until the entire exposed length is thoroughly tinned and all of the wires are bonded together.
While still hot, wipe the surface with a rag so that the end of the conductor will slip into the lug. If the lug is not already tinned on the inside, clean it with emery cloth and hold it with a pair of pliers in the blowtorch flame, applying solder and flux until the hole is full of molten solder.
Place the end of the conductor in the flame again in order to bring it up to the same temperature as the solder in the lug, and then insert 67 the conductor in the lug, taking care to keep the hands clear of the overflowing hot solder. Let the flame play on the terminal and lug for a few seconds in order that the molten solder and strands of wire will mix thoroughly, and then remove from the flame and cool with a water-soaked rag or piece of waste.
The shank of the lug should be cleaned with emery paper, and rubber tape and friction tape applied as shown in Fig. A coating of black insulating varnish should then be added. Direct Flame Soldering. A blowtorch can be used on larger jobs, but in other cases an alcohol torch is more useful. An automatic alcohol torch, shown in Fig. One compartment contains a supply of alcohol for the wick, the other contains the alcohol for the jet of flame.
When the wick is lighted, the heat from its flame heats the jet tube, which causes the alcohol to vaporize and build up a pressure. The pressure forces some of the alcohol vapor out through the small jet opening, where it is ignited to form a hot, light blue flame. When the flame is passed over an electrical splice, for example, and rosin core solder applied, the joint can be soldered very efficiently. Another type of automatic soldering iron, suitable only for use with alternating current, has two electrodes, a built-in transformer, and a pistol grip.
By pressing on the grip, a trigger switch is closed, current is passed through the electrodes, which are shaped for convenient application to the joint, and almost instantaneous soldering is achieved.
Safety Precautions. Do not fill a blowtorch or an alcohol torch near an open flame or where a spark might ignite it. Do not attempt to solder a can or tank that has contained gasoline, alcohol, etc. Be sure to disconnect an electric soldering iron when through using it. Be careful where a hot soldering iron is placed; it may start a fire or burn yourself or a shipmate. Welders often do this work with electric arc welding equipment or with oxyacetylene gas torches.
Electric arc welding is used on the joints of large pipe lines, for repairing iron and steel castings, and for welding other structures and plates. An arc welding set-up is shown schematically in Fig. Most arc welding is done with metal electrode filler rods, which are coated with flux suitable to the material being welded.
The electrode is held in a spring-jaw holder which is connected by a heavy insulated cable to the generator or other power source. To FIG. The end of the metal electrode and nearby portions of the metal being welded are melted by the heat of the arc, and they are thus fused together. The electrode supplies the extra metal that is usually required to make a strong weld.
They also wear leather jackets and aprons to protect their bodies from the heat. Oxyacetylene welding, or gas welding, is done with a welding torch, which mixes the acetylene and oxygen gases to provide fuel for the flame.
Two heavy hoses are connected to the torch, one leading to the acetylene supply, the other to the oxygen supply. Portable gas welding units have high-pressure steel containers of the gases, often mounted' on a two-wheel cart, as shown in Fig. Additional metal necessary for gas welds is obtained from a welding rod, the rods being selected by diameter and by the kind of material suitable to the welding job.
Fluxes are used as required. An explanation of the symbols and other terms used in fusion welding will be found in Marine Engineering Tables. The filler metal, known as spelter , has a lower melting point than the metal being brazed.
Powdered borax is used as a flux for brazing and silver soldering, and commercial fluxes are also available. Sal-ammoniac may be used as a flux for brazing copper. After the flux has been applied, the parts to be brazed are heated to a temperature above the melting point of the filler metal rod.
The rod is then melted by the heat of the part, and the molten filler metal flows smoothly along the fluxed crack or joint. They must be harder than the material on which they are used, and vary from coarse grits used for fast cutting, to powders as fine as talcum and used only for polishing.
The abrasive particles are used in the form of powder, paste, sheets, belts, disks, grinding wheels, etc. There are both natural and artificial abrasives. Flint and garnet grits of ordinary sandpaper, also emery and corundum, are natural abrasives, and silicon carbide and aluminum oxide are artificial abrasives.
If a sieve has 46 spaces per linear inch, the grains that just pass through that mesh are size Abrasive grains range in size from 4 to ; abrasive flours, powdery fine, range from to There are 28 standard sizes, and it will be found that the grain size is marked on abrasive sheets, disks, grinding wheels, etc.
The left-hand column of Fig. Note that the systems used for flint paper and emery cloth vary somewhat from the system used for garnet paper and artificial abrasives. Ordinary flint and garnet sandpapers are made by using hide glue to bond the grains to a tough paper backing sheet. As this type of bond disintegrates when used with liquids, the better grades of garnet paper are bonded with special resins, and may be used with water or oil for wet sanding.
Grinding Wheels. Aluminum oxide wheels are best for grinding materials of high tensile strength, such as carbon steels, alloy steels, malleable iron, wrought iron, tough bronze, and tungsten. Silicon carbide wheels are used to grind materials of low tensile strength, such as aluminum, bakelite, brass, common bronze, cast iron, copper, leather, and rubber. Grinding wheels are graded according to softness and hardness.
Soft wheels should be operated at slower speeds, as the grains wear away rapidly and the wheel is easily broken. Medium-hard and hard wheels are operated at higher speeds. The abrasive grains of grinding wheels are held together by special bonds, and the type of bond affects the uses of the wheel. Shellac bond wheels are used for sharpening tools and finish grinding. Silicate bond wheels are used when the heat generated in grinding must be kept at a minimum, large diameter, slow-turning wheels usually being of this type.
Vitrified wheels are bonded with clay or flint at high temperatures. These wheels are porous and do not clog with metal as rapidly as other wheels. Vitrified wheels of coarse grain are used where rapid removal of metal is desired. Fine-grain wheels are used for precision grinding. Vulcanite wheels are bonded with rubber by a vulcanizing process, and are strong and tough. Thin wheels used for "cutting-off" and for high-speed grinding are rubber-bonded.
Resinoid wheels are bonded with synthetic resins, and may be operated at high speeds. They are especially good for fast rough grinding.
A or grain wheel should be used for coarse, rough grinding on castings, etc. A grain wheel is recommended for most small-tool grinding, and a grain wheel for grinding twist drills and lathe cutting tools. A tabulation giving the manufacturer's markings which enable the various types, grades and grain sizes of grinding wheels to be identified, will be found in Marine Engineering Tables. Slow-turning oil-stone wheels, which are soft and porous, are best for grinding keen edges on plane irons, knives, and other wood cutting tools.
An abrasive wheel of this kind should be soaked with kerosene while it is being used. Grinding wheels are also manufactured in a great variety of shapes, sizes, and bores diameter of arbor hole , sectional views of several different types being shown in Fig.
Bench Grinder. Usually one wheel is coarse for rough grinding, the other fine for tool sharpening and finish grinding. Bench grinders should be sufficiently heavy and rigid to minimize vibration, and should be securely mounted in place. They should be provided with shields and guards for the safety of personnel. The shield should be adjustable and provided with nonshatterable glass.
Tool rests should be kept adjusted close to the FIG. The ends of the shaft should be threaded so that the nuts on both ends will tend to tighten as the shaft revolves. In other words, to remove the nuts they should both be turned in the direction the shaft revolves when the wheel is in motion. Mounting Grinding Wheels. Some mechanics tap a new wheel lightly with a small piece of metal and check for the "ring" that indicates a sound wheel. The wheels should fit freely on the shaft; they should not be forced on, nor should they be too loose.
A thin cushion of compressible material should be fitted between the wheel and the washers, as shown in Fig. If blotting paper is used for this purpose, it should not be thicker than 0. When tightening the nuts that hold the wheel, care should be taken to tighten them just enough to hold the wheel firmly; an excessive clamping strain may damage the wheel or its associated parts. After mounting a wheel, care should be taken that the guards and shields are properly replaced.
Speeds of Grinding Wheels. Speeds are given in feet per minute fpm. To determine the revolutions per minute rpm needed to obtain a given peripheral speed with a wheel of a given diameter, the following tabulation may be used:.
To use the tabulation in connection with an 8-inch wheel, for example, to find the revolutions per minute needed to give a peripheral speed of 6, fpm, note the number opposite 6,, which is 22,, and divide the number by 8. An 8-inch wheel is therefore operated at 2, rpm in order to have a peripheral speed of 6, fpm.
The table can also be used to determine the largest wheel that can safely be used on a grinder which turns at a constant speed. This is done by dividing the factor corresponding to the desired peripheral speed by the spindle speed. If the spindle speed is adjustable, it may be speeded up as the wheel wears down, thus maintaining the most efficient peripheral speed. Under these conditions it is extremely important, when 76 the worn-out wheel is replaced with a new one of larger diameter, that the spindle speed be reduced to prevent the wheel from breaking.
It is strongly recommended that the means of adjusting spindle speed be locked up and placed in the control of an authorized person only. Precautions in Use of Grinding Wheels.
If the wheel is chipped, or uneven in any way, it should be dressed before the grinding of fine tools is attempted. When grinding is being done, the work should not be forced against a cold wheel, but applied gradually, giving the wheel an opportunity to warm up.
This precaution minimizes the chance of breakage, and especially applies when working in a cold room, or when using new wheels that have been stored in a cool place.
Grinding on the flat sides of straight wheels is often hazardous and should not be allowed when the sides of the wheel are appreciably worn or when any considerable or sudden pressure is brought to bear against the sides of the wheels. All arbors, adapters, or other machine parts on which wheels fit, should be periodically inspected and maintained to size. Also, if a grinding wheel should break, a careful inspection should be made to make sure that the hood has not been damaged, nor the flanges bent or sprung out of true or out of balance.
The spindle and nuts should also be carefully inspected. Wheels used in wet grinding should not be allowed to stand partly immersed in the water. The water-soaked portion may throw the wheel dangerously out of balance.
All wet tool grinders which are not so designed as to provide a constant supply of fresh water, should be thoroughly drained at the end of each day's work and a fresh supply provided just before starting. Dressing a Grinding Wheel. This can be done by means of a "star" type steel dressing tool, as shown in Fig. To dress the wheel, the tool is held against the grinding wheel and moved sideways across the periphery as the wheel revolves.
The work must be done carefully, however, and 77 FIG. Wheels which cannot be balanced by dressing should be removed from the machine. After a grinding wheel has been used for some time it will become clogged with metal, dirt, grease, etc.
The dressing tool may then be used to clean and sharpen the wheel, as it will cut away the clogged surface and break up the rounded grains so that new, sharp cutting edges are exposed.
A precision grinding wheel may be dressed by a special tool in which diamonds are mounted, the tool being mounted in a fixture designed for the purpose. Oil Stones. Oil stones are classified as artificial and natural stones, which means that they are either manufactured by bonding together such abrasives as aluminum oxide or silicon carbide, or are made from pieces of natural stone.
Both types are available in various grades of hardness and fineness and in a variety of shapes. A very convenient form of oil stone is the "combination" stone, which is coarse on one side and fine on the other. The operation of using an oil stone to bring the cutting edges of tools to a fine degree of keenness is known as honing.
Tools may 78 be honed to remove the feather-edge left by the grinder, or may be sharpened on the oil stone without recourse to the grinder. To hone a chisel, knife, scraper or other cutting tool, it is customary to work first on the coarse side of a combination oil stone, as this side cuts more rapidly, and then bring the tool to a very keen edge on the smooth side of the stone. To prevent glazing of the stone and to float away the minute pieces of steel that are ground off during the honing operation, a' little water or oil is used on the stone in the process.
Water is used on coarse-grained natural stones; oil is used on medium and fine-grained natural stones and on all artificial stones. Considerable practice and skill is required to produce the desired keen edge on a fine cutting tool, the exact procedure depending partly upon the type of tool involved.
To sharpen a chisel or similar tool on an artificial stone, for example, place a few drops of light oil on the stone and hold the tool so that the ground area, or facet, at the blade's cutting edge bears evenly against the stone. Apply only a moderate pressure, and with the cutting edge leading, stroke the tool on the stone, relieving the pressure as the tool is brought back, with a sliding motion, for the next forward stroke.
After a few strokes on one side, turn the tool over and hone the other side. As the strokes are continued, frequently reversing the side being honed, the cutting edge will gradually be improved. During the last part of the honing, less pressure is used, and as a final touch, with the facet held lightly on the stone, the blade is given one forward diagonal stroke, first on one side and then the other.
In order to keep the surface of an oil stone flat and even, tools should be sharpened on the whole surface of the stone, not in the middle part only.
This is aided by turning the stone end for end occasionally. However, if the surface of an oil stone should become uneven, it may be trued by rubbing the stone against a flat and true sandstone or emery brick, or by grinding it against the side of a grindstone.
By taking proper care of an oil stone, glazing will be prevented, the sharpness of the grit retained, and the life of the stone lengthened.
However, if dirty oil is left on the stone after it is used, the dust will be carried into the stone as the oil dries. It is therefore advisable to wipe off an oil stone thoroughly as soon as possible after using it. Also, if an oil stone is left exposed to the air or allowed to remain dry for a long period, it will tend to become 79 hard.
It should therefore be kept in a box having a closed cover, with a few drops of clean oil left on the surface of the stone. If an oil stone should become glazed or gummed up, a good cleaning with gasoline or ammonia will help to restore its cutting qualities. Turpentine should not be used on an oil stone, however, as it causes the stone to deteriorate rapidly. If necessary, the stone can be scoured on sandpaper fastened to a perfectly smooth board, or on loose emery spread on a flat surface.
Coated Abrasives. When ground to a powder, it is used for grinding and polishing. It is relatively soft when compared to silicon carbide and aluminum oxide, and is therefore more useful with soft metals than with hard metals. It is not suitable for use with wood. Emery is bonded with glue to form a coating on both cloth and paper backings, emery cloth in 9 in. X 11 in. Emery cloth is valuable for polishing metals, but when a cutting cloth is desired, aluminum oxide should be used.
Crocus cloth is an extremely fine polishing abrasive, the cloth backing being coated with ferrous oxide. It is used like emery cloth, but is so fine that its surface feels smooth to the finger tips.
Flint sandpaper is coated with crushed quartz, the abrasive being bonded to the paper with glue. It is generally used for sanding of wood and paint, and is commonly applied in the forms of sheets 9 in. Sandpaper comes in several grits, or degrees of fineness. Glue-bonded abrasives absorb and give off moisture rapidly, and their work value is dependent in great measure on their moisture content. They should be stored, if possible, in a cool, even temperature, where the relative humidity will be somewhere between 35 and 65 per cent.
If sandpaper is stored near steam lines, for example, where it will dry out, it loses practically all of its work value and cannot be brought back by adding moisture. If it absorbs too much moisture, however, it can be slowly dried out to the proper degree of moisture and the work value will be considerably restored.
Other Abrasives. The abrasive action is obtained by coating the valve face with compound and rubbing it against the valve seat. Rouge is a polishing material used for very fine work on metal surfaces.
It is made of ferric oxide and supplied in bar form. As most eye injuries that have occurred aboard ship could have been prevented by the wearing of goggles, they should be worn when using grinders, drills, lathes, or other machine tools; when working in boilers, changing gauge glasses, using air hose and mixing boiler compound; and while scaling, chipping and wire brushing, scrubbing with strong cleansers, particularly overhead, painting overhead, welding, etc.
Types of Goggles. If properly fitted, they also keep out small particles. This type of goggle should be used where there is danger of heavy flying pieces, such as bolt and rivet heads, or where high-velocity paint chips or steel splinters may possibly result from such operations as chipping or chiseling. Cup goggles are also made in the cover glass type so that a man who must wear prescription glasses while working can be protected with goggles.
Although these are heavier than regular cup goggles, they often fit some men better than the regular type and may be preferred whether or not glasses are worn. Lightweight goggles, made entirely of transparent plastic, do not provide the maximum protection of cup goggles, but have a wide range of vision, good ventilation, and should provide ample protection against normal hazards of scaling, painting, grinding, etc. These goggles can be worn over prescription spectacles and are adaptable to a wide range of facial sizes.
Spectacle-type goggles with hardened glass lenses can be obtained with or without side shields, and come in various sizes of lens and bridge. As they can be folded and carried in a case, they are particularly suited for the use of personnel who inspect or supervise jobs on which the men are required to wear goggles. For men who have to wear prescription glasses on the job, there are available corrective lenses that have been hardened to make 81 the glass just as strong as in ordinary goggles.
In addition to protection for the eyes, which might be cut should a blow break the dress glasses, these special goggles are not subject to breakage should they be dropped accidentally. It should be noted that the better grades of goggles have curved rather than flat lenses, the glass being curved to increase the strength and resistance to impact. These lenses are curved the same amount on both surfaces and therefore do not affect the vision. Fitting Goggles. Proper adjustment can usually correct the trouble..
Cup goggles can be adjusted only by changing the distance between the eye cups. This is usually done by removing the lens retaining rings and lengthening or shortening the chain that connects the eye cups. The lightweight plastic goggles have no adjustment other than the tension of the head band. The band should be adjusted so that when it rests above the ears and low around the back of the head it is possible to slip two fingers easily under it.
Spectacle-type goggles come in three bridge sizes, of which the medium or mm size will fit the majority of individuals. Steel frame goggles usually have adjustable nose pads which can be twisted with needle-nose pliers until the pads rest flat against the sides of the nose.
The bows are adjusted to fit the ears by bending gently between the fingers, and the vertical angle of the goggles is changed by bending the bows where they join the rims. Care of Goggles. Before the goggles are issued to another man, however, they should be sterilized. The disinfectant should then be washed off with soap and water and a new head band installed. One of the chief objections to goggles is that they fog up in hot weather.
There is no absolute cure for this condition, although 82 several special preparations which reduce fogging to a considerable extent are available. Plain castile soap rubbed on and then wiped clear with a soft cloth will also help. The use of sweat bands on the forehead will stop perspiration from dripping on the lenses.
When lenses become scratched or pitted and head bands become worn or dirty, it is not necessary to discard the goggles. Spare lenses, head bands, and other parts of high-grade goggles can be obtained and replacements can be made. By having a supply of spares on hand, goggles can be kept in good condition at all times.
Instructions : -Study the lesson very carefully before considering the examination questions. Then read each question slowly and be sure that you understand it. When answering the questions, always take sufficient time, prepare the answers in your own words, and do your best work. In arranging your answers, please leave space between them so that the instructor will be able to write in helpful explanation, should you make an error or overlook an important point.
After the answers are completed, check them again very carefully; make sure that all questions are taken care of; correct each error that you find; and mail your work to us. What general precautions should be taken when using tools on engine-room equipment or at an upper level in the engine room? Explain the main advantages of using a torque wrench on an engine. What is the maximum permissible speed, in rpm, for operation of a 7-inch hard vitrified-bond grinding wheel?
A bench grinder turns at 3, rpm and is equipped with medium-hard vulcanite-bond grinding wheels. What is the largest wheel that can safely be used? Describe the procedure followed when using a bench grinder to sharpen a cold chisel. What are soft jaws , and where and why used? What will be the indications that the following items are wrong with a drill? It will fit the nut of what size stud?
Show all work. How would the wrench be marked? Show work. What wrench should be used for tightening the nuts on manhole plates and handhole plates of a boiler? What type of nippers are used to cut drill rod or piano wire? Explain how an "old man" is used. How should goggles be sterilized?
What precautions should be taken when storing the reserve supply of sandpaper and emery cloth? Doc Home Page Next Part. All Rights Reserved. Legal Notices and Privacy Policy Version 3.
Folks, Engine Room Tools , , is a training manual that focuses on the correct use of tools aboard ship. Acknowledgment The staff of the United States Maritime Service Institute wishes to acknowledge the valuable aid given by the following organizations in granting permission to use material from their publications. Without the proper tools and. Some tools can be used for several purposes, but using the wrong tool may ruin not only it, but the work as well.
Hammers with heads made of soft material, such as lead,. With such an arrangement, first one end of the screwdriver. The tip of a screwdriver blade should be ground so that the sides of the blade are parallel, and the blade sides should.
Adjustable combination pliers have a slip joint that permits the jaws to be opened wider at the. For light work on soft metals the. They resemble Trojan snips, but. When cutting from the edge of a large sheet, it is advisable to cut from the left-hand side. Bolt cutters usually have special replaceable jaws of extra-hard metal alloys;.
Starting punches , sometimes called drifts , have a long taper. Pipe jaws , as shown in the illustration, can. Care should also be exercised to see that the vise is not opened beyond the limit of the screw,.
The size of an open-end wrench is usually stamped on the face, and denotes the width of the opening between the jaws of the wrench. In a situation such as shown in Fig. However, with the wrench turned over, as shown in views 2 and 3 , it is possible to apply the wrench FIG.
In some cases one man will hold the wrench on the nut, keeping a firm pulling strain on it, while another person. An adjustable wrench will not stand the hard usage of an open-end wrench and must be used very carefully. It is important that its jaws be closely adjusted to fit the nut, and it should always be used so that the force of the pull comes on the solid, or stationary, jaw, as shown in Fig. In this case, therefore, after a tight nut is started, it can often be unscrewed much more quickly with an open-end wrench.
A ratchet. This is very important in many cases, enabling a workman to tighten the bolts of a crankpin bearing, for example, to the exact tension specified by the manufacturer of the engine, and to make sure that cylinder-head nuts are all evenly tightened according to instructions. If nuts are tightened with too much force, the bolts may break.
In the case of a crankpin bolt, for example, with the engine in operation, such breakage would probably cause serious damage. For parts or not working. Please provide a valid price range. Buying Format see all.
All Listings. Best Offer. Buy It Now. Classified Ads. Item Location see all. Delivery Options see all. Free Shipping. Free In-store Pickup. Show only see all. Returns Accepted. Completed Items. Sierra Gear Lube Pump. Sierra Hinge Pin Tool Replaces Hinge Pin Tool Mercruiser Quick view.
Sea Dog Stainless Impeller Puller. List Price:. Sierra Sleeve Installation Tool Replaces Lifting Eye, Mercury - Mercruiser Sierra Grease Gun. Sierra Spanner Nut Wrench Replaces CDI Spark Tester. Sierra Oil Filter Wrench. Marine Tools Every boater should have a small arsenal of tools onboard for fast changeovers that mean the difference between a day of boating fun and a day wasted.
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